Friday, September 16, 2011

September 15, 2011

Day 9 - Salzburg to Vienna

Note: Rick was able to set up a way I could send you this blog directly to your e-mail rather than your having to remember to check it. I don't want to be presumptuous
though, so if you get this and you don't want it in your e-mail box, just let me know and I will remove your name. I promise it won't hurt my feelings.

We left Salzburg around 11 this morning. I think Salzburg was a little too crowded and touristy for either of our liking. We didn't see much of it but what we saw was enough!

We drove about 30 minutes south of Salzburg into Germany again to a lake we had originally planned to visit, Konigssee. We missed a turn the "lady" told us to make and ended up taking the scenic route through the mountains. Because of this, we passed the Eagles Nest, a headquarters/vacation spot for Hitler during the war. For me it was creepy to be so close to a place Hitler actually visited and brought back the uncomfortable feeling of the day before.

Actually, I'm kind of upset with myself for generally feeling uncomfortable in Germany. I keep looking at the elderly people and wondering if they were Nazis. I know that people my age or younger had nothing to do with the Holocaust but I still am triggered by just the thought of what happened here.

This the hotel we were going to stay in had our plans not changed.
Konigsee is a gorgeous Alpine lake and tourist attraction. They have boats that take you around the lake because there are hardly any places to land as the mountains come right down to the water. Our boat was filled with a tour group of elderly German tourists and the man who did the commentary only spoke German. He must have been pretty funny because he kept everyone laughing. It was weird being with about 100 people, not understanding a word anyone was saying and wondering if they were talking about us. Okay, now I'm getting a little paranoid here, right? Well that explains the mood I was in on the boat, trying to enjoy the scenery and not feel too weird.

The big lake and St. Bartholoma
We got off the boat at the end of the lake and hiked about 20 minutes to another lake. The whole area is a national park and really is quite beautiful. The hike and the scenery changed my mood and I totally enjoyed and appreciated the rest of the day! I've put in a few photos to give you an idea of the beauty. The little lake was like being in an impressionist painting.





The small lake Salet Obersee









Had to have a KROG pic! I do hiking and like it.


After we left Konigssee we drove to Vienna. It was supposed to take three hours but we didn't get here until 10pm because of a major traffic tie up on the highway. Our hotel seems to be in a pretty hip neighborhood and is really beautiful. I'm looking forward to exploring tomorrow.

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

September 14,2011

Day 8 - Rothenburg ob der Tauber to Salzburg, Austria

Today was another travel day for us. We started out on what's called "The Romantic Road" which is Germany's way to attract tourists to some of its lesser known medieval towns. We saw a couple from the road but decided that Rothenburg was enough for us.

A spur of the moment thing we chose to do was try to find the Displaced Persons Camp my first husband, Max, was born in and lived until his family was able to move to the US in 1950. We did a Google search and saw that the location of the town was just an hour out of our way. There was no information about the location of the camp but a few things we read indicated that that Allies moved people into the barracks of a German Air Force base. All the holocaust survivors were moved to other locations by 1950 when the American Army occupied it until 1955 when it was given back to the Germans.

We found the German Air Force base and of course we couldn't just walk in. We pushed the intercom by the locked gate and explained what we were looking for. The person speaking to us indicated that he didn't know whether it was the location of the camp, he didn't know where we could find that out, that we couldn't come in for a look around, and that we couldn't take pictures. Go figure?

We spent a little bit of time driving around the town taking some pictures and also sneaking some of the base. I've included some for you to see.

This last one was a deserted field next to the base and where Rick thinks the camp was.

Being there was very emotional for me. I've seen Max's baby pictures and his birth certificate and it felt amazing to be in the vicinity of where he was born. Then I started imagining what it was like for all the traumatized people who lived in the camp, each suffered so much during the war and then each spent years in limbo not knowing what was going to happen to them. The social worker in me wanted to know if they were offered any counseling or help in dealing with their losses, memories, and experiences. I think I have some studying to do when I get home.

We were considering going to visit Dachau but this was enough for right now.

After we left Lagerlechfeld, we got on the Autobahn and while Rick drove a speed I don't even want to know, I slept on the three hour drive to Salzburg.

After a few tries we found our hotel, which incidentally is right around the corner from Mozart's house, and then headed out to explore and find some dinner. We happened on a little restaurant with some English speakers sitting outside eating an amazing wooden slab of food. It was the nightly special and they said it was good so we ordered it.

I thought it was veal so I didn't want to eat it but the veggies, rice, and fries were good. Then Rick informed me that it was actually pork shnitzel, so I ate it and it was good. I guess I don't feel as sorry for pigs as I do baby cows!

Tomorrow we'll explore a little more of Salzburg before making our way to Vienna.

September 13, 2011


Day 7 – Rothenburg ob der Tauber

It was a beautiful, cool, partly cloudy day today which made exploring the city delightful. This was the third largest city in Germany in the Middle Ages because it was on two trade routes. After the Thirty Years War, hard times hit and the city was frozen in time from 1648 until the late 1800s when it was rediscovered and became a tourist destination. My first impression is that it is so big and the buildings are so tall. I’m just going to put in a few pictures for you to see. Most of the structures are from 1400!





 Our hotel.
























The city is completely walled and has a beautiful garden where the castle once stood. It is filled with tourists and every shop caters to them/us. Beer steins, sausages, a Christmas decorations seem to be the biggest draw. Oh, and the Schneeballs, a ball of pie crust sold in most shops that carry food. We sampled one and even I, who loves pie crust, didn’t like it!


The best part of our stay here for me was the Night Watchman’s Tour. It was recommended by Rick S. About 100 English speaking people gathered in Market Square at 8pm (the German speaking tour was at 9:30. http://www.nightwatchman.de/index.php?cat=147&cl2=141&cl3=147&sprache=ENG
I thought it was going to be quite hokey but it really was interesting and fun.

We had a nice German dinner served by a guy from Seattle who moved here 10 years ago to be close to his ex-wife and daughter. He definitely wishes he was back in the US. He would be such a great client if I lived here!  

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

The Adventure Begins!


Well, as in the past, we have had frustrations with internetconnectivity on our trip. The hotel in Zurichkept promising it would be fixed but it never did get repaired during our stay.Therefore, I worked on my blog diligently on a Word document. We are inRothenburg ob der Tauber, Germanyright now. This morning I transferred all I had written to the blog program(took about 90 minutes to get everything formatted and the photos downloaded)and then when I pressed publish the program crashed and I lost it all! So now,several hours later, I will try again!

September 7-8, 2011
Days 1-2 - Kansas City to Zurich

We left today with the usual mixed feelings: excitementtempered by worry (fear of being so far away from loved ones). This time I feltsad too. This will be my first trip to Europewithout Werner and Susan. Each time we have traveled it seems as if Werner hadsome health emergency shortly before we were supposed to leave. He always madea quick recovery and was able to join us, even if a little late. This time, atage 93, with an unknown diagnosis of his symptoms, it was the reasonable choicefor Susan and Werner to cancel their trip. Since we don’t travel together, itwas easy to pretend that they would be meeting us at the hotel in Zurich as we had planned.My fantasy faded as we landed in Zurichand made our way by train to the Sonne.

When Rick and I learned that Susan and Werner wouldn’t bejoining us, we tried to figure out some way to have them with us in spirit. Wecame up with the idea to bring their likenesses with us. You’ll notice photosof them as we share our experiences with them. Although we did take a pictureof them in bed at their favorite hotel in Zurich,the Sonne but that one is for their eyes only!

For some reason, I couldn’t sleep on the plane. When we gotto the hotel our room wouldn’t be ready for another hour or so. It wasaround10am so we left our bags and walked around the village. Kusnacht is asuburb of Zurich on the shore the Lake Zurich.We walked to a supermarket. I love visiting supermarkets in Europe.It’s so interesting to see the different products, the prices, and how thingsare displayed. We bought a big bottle of water and a baguette and then sat onthe dock of our hotel until our room was ready.

We collapsed when we got to our room. Didn’t even get ashower. Just passed out. We woke-up periodically during the day, looked out atthe lake and then went back to sleep. One of the times I woke up was at sunsetand luckily I was able to capture it. Good timing, huh?





We dragged ourselvesout of bed around 9pm, got dressed and went out to find some dinner. Therestaurant we found served outside. The one server spoke no English and themenu was in German. The one word I could figure out was pizza. So go figure, myfirst meal in Switzerlandwas a Margherita pizza! Rick had a Greek salad and roesti (Swiss hash brownscooked in a pancake shape) that tastes better than any hash browns the US has to offer.We were both so thirsty, we ordered the biggest beers we could.

It occurred to me that I make quite a transition when Itravel to Europe. It’s as if my senses go onoverdrive. Once the thoughts of work and the voices from home fade, my eyes seethings differently, I hear more acutely, I’m even drawn to touching things tofeel their texture, smells seem more intense, and so do emotions. I also seemto have “deep thoughts” more frequently. I’m wondering if it might be themindfulness that seems to escape me at home.


September 9, 2011
Day 3 – Zurich

This morning we woke feeling much better. We slept until9:30 which may have had something to do with it. We took the train into Zurich which took about10 minutes. There we decided to try our old pal, Rick Steves, walking tour of Zurich. We started at thetrain station. This photo is of the blue angel, Zurich’s guardian angel who protects alltourists.

Rick S. suggested a trip through the Swiss National Museum. I’m glad we tookhis advice. It gave us a history of Switzerland in two hours throughexhibits that were interesting, moving, and beautiful. One of the laterexhibits depicted Swiss design. It had rooms from the 1920s to the present. Thefurniture, accessories, and art had a “coolness,” that exuded what modern wasat the time. It totally reminded me of my dad, an artist/designer whoappreciated and introduced us to whatever was new/avant-garde in design. He andmy mom went to Europe in the 50s and 60s andbrought home photos of what I saw in the museum exhibit.

After the museum we had lunch at Hiltl VegetarianRestaurant. Susan and Werner had suggested it. It was pretty hot here today andI think I was still dehydrated from the trip. I wasn’t hungry but had a largeginger lemonade. Rick had a semolina soup. We both had around eight glasses oftheir “free” tap water. Apparently in Zurichmany restaurants charge for tap water. We’re going to go back for dinnertomorrow so I’ll tell you then about their amazing vegetarian buffet.

We followed the walking tour visiting a couple of tinyparks, wandering into some incredible toy shops, taking in the Fraumunsterchurch with its Chagall stained glass windows, peered into the ruins of Romanbaths discovered in 1984, and walked down the fanciest block of theBahnhofstrasse (the Rodeo Drive of Zurich). My son, Daniel, would have lovedall the designer clothing. I loved peeking into the shops to see who wasactually buying things. Unfortunately, it didn’t seem like they had manycustomers.

Those of you who read my blog last time may remember myamazement at how many strikingly tall, beautiful Italian men there were in Rome. Well, Zurich has its owncontingent of strikingly tall, Swiss men, decked out in their impeccablytailored dark suits, who were as beautiful as some of the art and design we sawin the museum! I’m thinking some of my single, women friends might beinterested in the Tour de European Men I think I’ll invent. Do I see a newcareer in my future?

We took a wonderful boat ride back to our hotel on Zurichsee(Lake Zurich). Had a fun dinner at sunset atthe cafeteria-style restaurant in the garden of our hotel at the edge of thelake. I ordered meat loaf and French fries as a departure from my usual pizza.Rick got the food from the line while I saved our table. When he arrived withmy meat loaf, it turned out to be what had the texture and taste of a hot dogin a meat loaf shape. Very interesting. It was good. Not the fancy fare that myfoodie friends would have appreciated. Everything here is incredibly expensive.My food reporting may get embarrassing.

The sunset was lovely again. Our room doesn’t haveair-conditioning so we decided to wander around Kusnacht after dark to let ourroom cool off a little. We still don’t have internet access. I’m beginning tothink it is a clever, European scam to offer wifi and then when you arrive atthe hotel, it just happens to be broken. It happened to us many times lasttrip. This doesn’t seem like such an auspicious start!

September 10, 2011
Day 4 Zurich

Woke up early today because we wanted to check out a fleamarket in Zurichthat Werner suggested and we weren’t so sure how long it lasted. It was verylarge and filled with all things that I don’t want or need. Unlike some fleamarkets at home, this one only had used/old items rather than inexpensive newthings I usually don’t want or need.

We then crossed the Limmat Riverinto the Niederdorf neighborhood. The first stop was the Grossmunster Church.Like the Fraumunster, it had its beginnings as a Catholic church but during theReformation, it was stripped of everything Catholic and to this day is verygray and austere with just its stained glass windows offering color. We werelucky to come at a time when someone was playing or practicing on its huge pipeorgan which really set the mood and was beautiful.

The Niederdorf is a much more quirky, artsy neighborhoodthan on the other side of the Limmat. It was fun wandering the narrow streets,looking into shops and galleries. It was still really hot so we decided to takea riverboat, picture a low lying city bus for a few stops to catch a breeze andrelax. It didn’t go fast enough to cool us down so we hopped off and caught atram to the tram museum. Rick was in heaven. It was a large car barn filledwith the history of trams in Zurichwith actual cars that you could climb into. I was in heaven because it wasright next to a supermarket where I got a cold Diet Coke and a frozen “softice” which is soft ice cream put in a plastic cup and sold at a supermarket.

Rick is amazing at negotiating the public transportationsystem. He is fearless and figures out quickly what we have to do to get wherewe have to go. Totally sweaty and hot we decided to get on one of the big lakeboats to see if the breeze would cool us down and it did! We also got a nice“kleine rundfahrten” which is a shorter roundtrip of the lake rather than the“grosse rundfahrten.” German is the best language to give me the giggles. Ithas lots of fahrt and gasse signs and I’m having fun taking photos of them foranyone who shares my juvenile humor.

Rick had a surprise for me at 7pm which required us to takeyet another kind of pubic transportation, a funicular—a little cable car thattakes you up a little mountain. I was amazed that it was totally run by acomputer with no sign of a human in sight. It took us to Rigiblick. The sun wasgoing down, it was cooling off, and exactly at 7pm (the Swiss are nothing butpunctual) all the church bells in Zurichstarted ringing at once! They were welcoming in the Christian Sabbath and itwas awesome. It also lasted exactly 15 minutes!

We finished the evening off at Hiltl for dinner. Mostly fortheir good food but also for their internet!

September 11, 2011
Day 5 – Zurich

Today we decided to just hangout at the hotel. We slept in,had a good breakfast, then went back to our room, opened the windows to thelake, and read and dozed for several hours.

Around 4pm we took a walk to find Carl Jung’s house. Rickhad read in a history of our hotel that he lived down the street and thatpeople from far away would stay at our hotel while they consulted with him. Thehouse is privately owned now with the Jung Institute located in Zurich. Jung lived inthis home from 1906 until is death in 1961. It was about a twenty minute walkto his house.

After we took some pictures we explored some more ofKusnacht, including two parks on the lake shore filled with families with kidsplaying in the lake and on playgrounds. It was lovely to sit on a bench andjust let the lake and the cool breeze envelop us. It’s interesting how I’vegotten used to not listening to peoples’ conversations since I don’t understandthem. Every once in a while I’ll hear a few words in English but it’s at such alow level of consciousness than I’ve noticed my other senses are so muchstronger. My eyes seem to notice more detail, color, textures. I hear peoplesounds but I’m just aware that they are there, not interested in what they aresaying or doing. I guess it's that mindfulness thing again!

Shortly after we got to back to our hotel, a storm blew in.I went back to the room to close the windows and decided to stay in. Rickstayed in the garden under a thick tree. It was nice to have 30 minutes or soby myself. One of part of the our trips that is difficult for me is not havingmuch alone time. We had some good togetherness since Wednesday. It was good tohave alone time!

It’s odd to be here during the 10th anniversaryof 9/11. The only English speaking television we get is CNN. Selfishly, Ihaven’t wanted to watch their non-stop coverage. We’re watching a Swiss stationas I am writing this. They are doing what looks like a documentary on 9/11. Iwish I could understand their spin on it.

Tomorrow we leave for Rotenburg, Germany. We’rerenting a car. The drive should take about 4 hours. Hopefully we’ll have betterinternet so I can actually post this!

September 12, 2011
Day 6 – Zurich to Rothenberg obder Tauber

After taking a few final photos of the view from our room, we left our luggage at the hotel and took an hour long boatride to Hertz in downtown Zurich.We were almost the only ones on the boat at that time in the morning and it wasdelightful!


Once there we took a tram to Hertz. I had to take a photo of howpunctual the trams are. At most stops in the downtown area they have electronicsigns that show the time the trams are to arrive. They are always on time!

After picking up our luggage we started on the way to Germany. Wedidn’t know that the Prius we rented would come with a GPS so we brought oursfrom home. Of course Rick decided to use both. We had dueling “ladies” for ourtrip on the Autobahn. I had heard that people go fast on the Autobahn. OMG, Ididn’t realize how fast! Thanks to the metric system on the speedometer, Ididn’t know how fast Rick was driving. I really missed Susan when we were inthe car. She and Rick usually take turns driving and I sit in the back seatpaying no attention to the quality or speed of the driving. Between the two“ladies,” the speed, the umleitung (detours), and the cars passing us at like150 mph, I white knuckled it for four hours!

We arrived and checked into our hotel and then got back inthe car to meet some old friends of ours who now live in Germany. We metthem at Schwabisch Hall, a town about 50 minutes away. We had a delightfuldinner with. Besides catching up with them, it was so nice to have an extendedconversation in English with someone besides ourselves.

After dinner we stopped for gelato. We asked the serverwhere he was from and he said Italy.Of course, I couldn’t resist trying out some of my Italian on him and before Iknew it, I was saying, “da le eh da me,” which means “your place or mine!” Thepoor guy blushed and started giggling. Unfortunately, he didn’t have enoughEnglish and I didn’t have enough Italian for me to explain that I was justjoking. Needless to say, we had a different server bringing us our gelato!

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Homeward Bound - Day 18



What a dream trip! Wish I could go home for a few days and come back and do more. After one last photo from a hotel window, we were off.

I think one smart move on my part was insisting that we take a van to the airport (here's a photo of me waiting for the van!) I just couldn't see starting an exhausting day being exhausted by maneuvering through the Paris subway, with luggage, on a Monday morning. We were pretty certain our plane would be taking off because the it was being reported that the strikes were calming down but we had no idea what we would face at the airport.

The Air France terminal was a zoo! Check in for each flight was assigned to a particular row of counters but there was only one line. As we got to each counter those assigned to it would break off into their own line. It was such a ridiculous system that at first we didn't understand it so Rick left me where we thought the end of the counter 3 line was. After he left to see if there was a better way to check in, some American women about 15 ft. behind me started yelling at me that I had "ditched" in line. They were so loud and angry I was afraid that they would start a fight with me so, "rule follower" that I am, I said I was sorry and started hiking way back to the end of the line. It took quite a while for Rick to find me and, the rule follower that he isn't, I think was pissed that I got bullied into moving.

Anyhow, it took more than an hour to get to our check-in counter during which we were able to observe the line standing attitudes of many cultures!

Other than being late, our flight to Detroit was uneventful. I sat next to a young man who was returning from spending 3 months taking care of his ailing mom in Morocco. He holds dual US/Moroccan citizenship, works in IT and was going back to his employer to see if they would let him telecommute from Morocco so he could continue to care for his mom.

When we arrived in Detroit, I had a text from Val (Rick's daughter) on my phone asking us to call because she had great news. It was great! She had gotten engaged the evening before to Boris (whom we got to meet at Katie and Robert's wedding). It was great fun spending our two hour layover talking with them about their plans.

Finally, we arrived back in Kansas City around 11:30pm. Daniel and Steve picked us up. We were exhausted but so happy to be home.

While I'm writing this almost 2 weeks after the fact, I can still remember the trip so clearly. I'm glad I hung in there with this blog so that I don't forget details and feelings. I still think the most important feeling I came away with from this trip is that I am a very, very fortunate woman and I am so glad that I appreciate every minute of being as fortunate as I am!

Paris - Day 17

This was our one day to "do" Paris so we got a relatively early start with a quick stop for croissants and a baguette to eat on a bench in a sweet little park right near our hotel. We decided to limit ourselves to the Marais neighborhood and to take the Rick Steves' walking tour. Rick hasn't failed us once on this trip!

We started with a visit to the Shoah (Holocaust) Remembrance Memorial. We thought it would be a walk through but ended up spending about two of our precious hours there. Besides having the names of those from Paris killed in the Holocaust chiseled into the walls outside, it had a tomb where ashes of those who died were buried after the war. Like we did when we visited a similar memorial in Amsterdam last year, we found some Gumpertz names on the wall. We haven't found out if they were related to Rick.

The memorial also featured a museum that documented the history of Jews in France. It was incredibly enlightening and moving to read how Jews were persecuted in France for hundreds of years before the Vichy government collaborated with the Nazis during World War II. It seemed like that in each century the persecution would last for a time and then Jews were gradually accepted into society until another movement started to eradicate them. This cycle repeated itself over and over again. I'm still trying to figure out how people have the tenacity to keep coming back.

We continued on our walk to the Place de la Bastille and then on to the Place des Vosges. We spent some time exploring an apartment Victor Hugo lived in for a period of his life. We made a special trip there because of Daniel's, Alissa's, and my love of the Broadway production of Les Miserables. I am frequently teased by my kids because every time they put on the soundtrack and the song, Come to Me, I cry. I couldn't help humming it as I toured the apartment.

The Place des Vosges was the perfect place to be during a short rain shower. We were able to take advantage of the covered passageways as we explored numerous art galleries. Couldn't help taking this photo for Alissa who seems to have "fond" memories of glass candy she saw when she was in Europe.

We continued through the Marais neighborhood to find several streets filled with people and falafel stands. While the Marais has been somewhat gentrified, there are now pockets where Jews and Muslims live together and there is even a gay district in it.

We walked for about six hours so we headed back to our hotel for a short nap before having our last dinner in Paris. Even though it was pretty chilly we decided we wanted to eat at a sidewalk cafe. They had some nice heaters to keep us warm.

It was time to make our way back to our hotel when we realized we hadn't seen the Eiffel Tower and how can you go to Paris without even a glimpse of it? We decided to walk to it. I had my doubts but Rick said we could take a train back to the hotel. After walking about an hour we finally got a good view of it at Place de la Concorde. The walk wasn't too shabby either as we walked past the endless Louvre and gardens.

It was such a lovely evening that we crossed the Seine to the Left Bank and walked toward Notre Dame. The evening was gorgeous and so was the scenery. We reminisced about the last time we were in Paris and totally didn't notice that we were on our eighth hour of being on our feet!

Arrivederci Italy, Bonjour Paris - Day 16

Today we bid farewell to Italy. We left Todi early to make our way to the Rome airport, about a two hour drive. From there Susan and Werner took a cab to Rome Termini station to catch their train to Thun, Switzerland.

Rick and I were a little nervous about flying to Paris because of the strikes that were causing many flights to be canceled. We ended up flying into Charles de Gaulle airport and taking a train to our hotel. The only problem we had was that the strikes had limited the trains and we had to switch to another one to get where we were going.

Our hotel is located in the Marais district in Paris, on the Right Bank, around the corner from the Pompedou Center, and traditionally the Jewish neighborhood. I can't remember how I found this hotel but is it lovely and in a great area. After a little rest we went out to find dinner. Because we were in a neighborhood, we walked past butcher shops, fish shops, fruit and vegetable stands, patisseries, boulangeries, and numerous cafes. Everything was beautiful. We settled into a little cafe. No more pasta, pizza, and red sauce!

I had a delightful omelet with jambon and fromage with a delicious green salad. Rick had steak frites!