France and Switzerland 2014 - Day 3

We woke-up and breakfasted at a more vacation-like hour of 10am. I love the way Susan and Werner have taught me about traveling. It's a cross between relaxing and planning a few highlights for the day.

Today's highlights included a "hop on hop off" bus tour for Susan, Kyle, and I, while Werner and Rick explored an exhibit about the liberation of Paris after World War II. The weather was perfect for our open-air, quintessentially touristy excursion. We mostly hopped on and viewed the ubiquitous sights.

We did hop off to find a restaurant for lunch that Kyle had heard of near the Arc de triomphe. After walking a mile through a beautiful residential neighborhood we discovered that the restaurant was closed. Go figure, it was 4 in the afternoon! We quickly found a sidewalk cafe that was open. We started lunch outside but soon were inside due to a thunderstorm. 








We had tickets to a concert at Sainte Chapelle and were supposed to meet Rick and Werner there at 6:30. Time moved too quickly and after a flurry of texts with Rick and instructions from our waiter, Susan, Kyle, and I decided to brave the Paris subway to get there. Long story short...we arrived a minute after the concert started at 7:01! It was a great adventure though.


The concert was a string quartet playing Vivaldi's Four Seasons. Rick and I had

experienced this during our first trip to Paris in 2002. It was exquisite and we were so glad we could share it with the others. This time was even better than I remembered. Between the stained glass windows of the chapel and the theatrics of the performers it was quite lovely.

As it was still light after the concert, we decided to explore one more sight and took a city bus to Monmartre and the Sacre-Coeur. After getting of the bus, Susan, Werner and I hailed a taxi to get up to the top while Kyle and Rick walked. We didn't expect to find a party-like atmosphere of tourists and locals sitting on the steps to

greet the sunset! Between the street performers and the guys walking around selling beer from a case on their shoulder, it was quite a happening. It was also stunning to experience the city below from our perch.

We took the funicular partway down the hill and then found another cab to take us back to our neighborhood. It was 10:30 and we hadn't eaten dinner so I pulled out my iPad in the back seat of the cab and quickly found a Rick Steves' suggestion in the Marais. I called to be sure they were open and our cab driver raced to get us there before their 11:00 closing. We had another "RS" winner! Since we arrived at 10:45, rather than dinner we had dessert. A delightful end to a thoroughly incredible day in Paris!  

France and Switzerland 2014 - Day 2

Up at 5am and breakfast at 7:30. Our bodies are trying to figure out just what is going on.

While Rick and I ate breakfast, we reminisced over breakfasts of travels past. I'm amazed how clear the memories are and how many we remembered. My theory of magical moments prevails!

We were so excited about the arrival of Werner, Susan, and Kyle that we couldn't do anything but wait in the lobby of the hotel to see them the moment they got here. They had some snafus at the airport so they were delayed until about noon but it was worth the wait. Werner looks wonderful. In fact they all looked pretty fine considering their long trip.

While they were napping, Rick and I headed over the the Musee d'Orsay. We took a city bus which doubled as a little sightseeing tour. It drove right through the courtyard of the Louvre so we saw its glass pyramid.

I'm not one for crowds or art museums (can't believe I'm admitting this publicly) but I'm a sucker for some Impressionist paintings. The museum is beautiful and huge. Saw some Van Gogh's and discovered a new painter who is probably famous but new to me, Alfred Sisely. Built in an old train station, I loved the museum's humongous clocks. I also loved the design of one of its restaurants.

After leaving the museum we walked part way back to the hotel along the Seine which was lovely. I wimped out and we hopped on a bus for the rest of the way.

We trusted Rick Steves for a dinner suggestion and he did not fail us! Tucked in a little street off the Place des Vosges, Les Bonnes Soeurs, was a perfect choice. Because Rick Steves said they had "the best fries I've had a Paris," I went

with that. They were good but then again, I haven't had many fries in Paris!

This is Kyle's first trip to Paris. Although I've been here two other times, I love seeing the city through his "new" eyes! I don't take the sights for granted but it is so exciting to gaze upon them for the first time. I'm so glad he's with us so I can experience it again.

With that in mind, we took a taxi to the Seine and went on an evening cruise. The energy of the city and the people enveloped us.

The banks were filled with people sitting and talking, waving, and drinking wine. As we began our voyage, Pharrell's Happy song was wafting from a club on the shore. Perfect! It's hard taking photos on a moving boat, at night, with flood lights and an iPhone but I love this one as it reflects the Impressionist paintings we saw earlier in the day.

France and Switzerland 2014 - Day 1

I never thought this was going to happen again but here we are on the way to another adventure with Susan and Werner in Europe! This time we will be accompanied by Susan's nephew, Kyle. I'm writing this on the morning after our arrival in Paris as I just couldn't do it yesterday after more than a day of travel. As I'm writing this, the Boston contingent has just landed at Charles de Gaulle!

We left Los Angeles at 10:05am on 7/30 and flew to Chicago to catch the plane to Paris. We had great connections but flying from the west coast sure makes for a long day of travel. Arriving in Paris during morning rush hour didn't help. We arrived at our hotel, the Marais Bastille, (Susan picked a winner!) around 11am and I immediately crashed. Rick went out to explore, came back with a bottle of water and an exquisite baguette (they never taste as good as they do here), and we both slept until about 5pm.

Though not totally refreshed or hydrated, we decided to take a walk and look for dinner. While still a bit warm from the sunny day, the walk was instantly invigorating as the fact that we were strolling the streets of the Marais begun to sink in. Our hotel is only a few blocks from the Place de la Bastille and the colorful Marais neighborhood.

What really struck me as we walked is that my three months of living in LA has really gotten me used to being in a multi-cultural environment. I remember on previous trips to Europe, originating from Kansas, what a shock to the system it was to land in the middle of diverse people speaking many languages. This time it seemed natural. While most people were speaking French instead of Spanish, I didn't feel the anxiety I felt at the beginning of previous trips.

This is the third time I've been in Paris and the fifth time to Europe. I still felt the immediate sense of awe walking through neighborhoods and past buildings dating from many centuries ago. We wandered over to the Place de Vosges (an area we enjoyed from a previous trip) and what a delight it was to sit and enjoy this beautiful park surrounded by buildings dating from 1605.

After spending the last three months having daily visits with my darling Clementine and the last month with sweet Winnie and Junie (and of course Alissa and Micah), I was envious of the families having an early evening picnic in the park. Thanks to Alissa, as we sat there soaking in the peaceful scene, I received texts with photos of "my" babies. I miss them a lot!

Our energy was flagging so we decided to find some dinner. With cafes, brasseries, and restaurants on every block, we couldn't make up our mind where to land. I was about ready to give up and go back to the room and eat a protein brownie when we found the perfect place to have a cold beer and lovely bite to eat. My gazpacho was delicious and Rick's steak frites were just what he had in mind.

We ended up back in the hotel by 10pm and were tired enough to  drift off to sleep at a "normal" bedtime. It's as surreal being in Paris as the knowledge that home is now Los Angeles. What is very real to me though is that I'm am one very fortunate woman!

California Here We Come - Days Six and Seven

We are back in Williams, AZ after a whirlwind trip to the Grand Canyon.

Our adventure started when we boarded the Grand Canyon Railway on Tuesday morning at 9:30. No wait a minute, at 9:00 we were expected to attend a "western show" prior to the train boarding. Definitely not my cup of tea. There was a fake western town, 5 or 6 cowboys, a U.S. Marshall, and a guy picked from the audience. After the first gunshot, I left and waited by the train but I could hear them acting out some kind of drama. It made me very nervous about our train trip.

Thank goodness, the 2.5 hour train ride wasn't that hokey. We had a nice young guy assigned to our car who tried to engage people and basically acted as our flight attendant. The scenery on the trip up to the canyon was interesting but certainly not up to the standards we established the past couple of days!

When we arrived, we were ushered onto a tour bus. We had bought a packaged tour from AAA and this was included. The bus driver was a friendly type who had lots of interesting facts about the canyon. We first stopped for a buffet lunch which was included and finally began the tour.

The bus stopped for our first viewing of the canyon. I had seen pictures and paintings of
the Grand Canyon but I was not prepared for how emotional the experience of seeing in for the first time would be. The vastness and beauty brought tears to my eyes. I was completely unaware of the people around me snapping pictures. I was in awe and speechless. Our tour took us to three different outlooks. I took 90 pictures on my phone and a bunch more on my camera in the 24 hours we were there. These are of few of my first look.

After our bus tour, we checked into our lodge. We had a lovely back patio where we sat

and watched the train return to Williams. It was suggested that we take a sunset bus tour but after the first bus tour, we both decided we weren't that kind of tourist. We prefer exploring independently. They have free shuttle buses that will take you all over the park. We took one to a lookout to await the sunset.

The whole area is very crowded with tourists. It felt somewhat like when we travel in Europe and are surrounded by people speaking different language. It seemed like we were with mostly Germans and Asians but the lookout we chose was filled with about 10 Italians from Bologna with very fancy camera set-ups. Sunset was at 7:25. We arrived an hour early. It was windy and chilly but there was an excitement and expectation in the air. 

The photo on the left is how the area looked when we
arrived and the one on the right is after the sun had set. To tell you the truth, it wasn't as fantastic as I had expected. It was definitely worth the trip but I think I expected more.

The altitude was really getting to me. That, and the intensity of the experience left both of us exhausted. We had a quick dinner in the hotel food court and went to bed.

Today, we had until 3:15 to explore more of the canyon. I was feeling kinda crappy so Rick took off to explore the Bright Angel Trail. I took a shuttle to get me close to where
he would be and we met up. We went back to the hotel to check-out and then caught a shuttle to Pipe Creek Vista. We

actually then did a 1.6 mile hike to the Visitor Center. I tracked the hike on my walking app. We went from a minimum of 7059 feet altitude to a maximum of 7194. It took 41 minutes but I'm so proud that I actually did it! Stacy, our trainer, would be proud too.

We took a shuttle back to our hotel, collected our things and then went to the train station. By then I was cooked. Everyone on the train was in good spirits. It was nice to see everyone so happy but I wished they would just shut-up! I read for a while and then 2 hours into the trip they announced that the train was going to be robbed. It was boarded by the same "gun slingers" and Marshall. Oy vey. I just stared at the floor and hoped they wouldn't try to "rob" Rick and I. Luckily, there were enough passengers who wanted to play along so they left us alone.

We arrived back to our hotel in Williams around 6:00, had some dinner, FaceTimed with Clementine, and organized our stuff for the trip to LA.

What an adventure we've had! It seems surreal that we are not returning to Leawood but beginning our new life in Los Angeles tomorrow. Thanks for coming along with us. Knowing that you are reading keeps me writing. I like having a record of our travel experiences and I probably wouldn't do it if you weren't there!

Tune in starting July 30 for the next segment of Travels with Karen and Rick when we head to France!

California Here We Come - Day Five

We had an ambitious schedule today and I'm exhausted so this post is going to be mostly pictures.

Our first stop was Meteor Crater. This first photo is in a courtyard. I loved the "window" which gave you some perspective about the countryside in which the meteor landed.

We saw a movie about the meteor/science of the crater and then took an hour long guided walk along the rim around a quarter of the way around the crater. Our guide was fantastic and not only gave us the history of the human interactions with the crater but also about the geology.

I've become amazingly unafraid of rock-climbing and heights in my old age. The last part of the walk was climbing on rocks to the edge of the crater. It was totally cool and the beauty of the rocks was incredible.

The wind died down today and the temperature was perfect!

Following Meteor Crater we drove to Sunset Crater National Monument. Sunset

Crater was formed from an erupting volcano around 1064. I have never seen lava fields and this was mind-blowing. The photos don't really show the lava but it was really diverse ranging from rock formations, large rocks, small pebbles, to fine sand.

Sunset Crater and Wupataki National Monuments were connected by an 18 mile beautiful drive in National Park Service property. The scenery was varied and included many views of the Painted Desert in the distance. There were acres of these light yellow grass meadows. I have no idea of whether the grasses were dried or flourishing. I just know that it was incredibly beautiful!

Wupataki National Monument contained several ruins of Native
American Pueblos that dated from 500-1200 a.d. We were able to climb among some of the ruins. It was hard to conceive that people lived here during and after the volcano eruption. 

 We then drove to Williams, AZ which took about 90 minutes. It is here that we will board the Grand Canyon Railway tomorrow morning for our ride to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. I'm told that there is no internet access in the hotel rooms there so I will not be sending a blog post tomorrow night. We've seen so much beauty, I can't imagine what it will be like to see the canyon in person. I'll let you know!

California Here We Come - Day Four

Wow! What a great day we had. We left Santa Fe by 10am and headed toward Arizona and the Petrified Forest National Park. It was really windy on the road but do'able. We arrived at 1:00 or so and after watching a short video, we headed out.

We are now the proud owners of Senior Passes for all National Parks. For $10.00 each, we get in free to every park we visit! Such a deal!

Unless you are planning to take some serious hikes, you drive through this park. The first part is the Painted Desert and remains of a pueblo village used by Native Americans for six centuries. The road had many lookout points and short trails to take. I've seen the Painted Desert from the air when flying over it but it is nothing like seeing it in person. I can't describe how beautiful, other-worldly, and spiritual the scenery was. I'm a sucker for beauty. Everywhere we looked was more beautiful that the last.

The Native American ruins and petroglyphs were equally moving. It's hard to conceive of anyone living in these badlands (cue Bruce's song which ran through my head during the whole visit). The wind added to the desolated feel of the area. I'm not exaggerating when I say that it was at least 45 miles per hour pretty steadily the whole time we were there. The gusts sometimes felt like they were going to blow me down. It was pretty exhausting being outside in the wind but very much worth it!

The drive through the park is 28 miles. It took a couple of hours (we stopped at every outlook) before we got to the petrified forest. The guidebook says that more than 200 million years ago trees clinging to eroding riverbanks fell into streams and were buried in floodplains. The trees were buried in sediment which contained silica and that silica replaced the wood until the logs were turned to stone. Erosion has exposed these logs. The vastness and number of logs over miles made it hard to believe that this wasn't just some movie set.

We stayed at the park until about 5:30pm and then hit the road for Flagstaff. On the way we stopped at Winslow, AZ. We couldn't resist finding the "corner" of Jackson Browne fame. What fun!

We are now in our hotel in Flagstaff and excited about tomorrow. We have three park visits planned before heading to Williams, AZ and the beginning of our Grand Canyon adventure. Life is good!

California Here We Come - Day Three

We left Littleton around 9:00am to make our way to Santa Fe, NM. We've had beautiful weather so far and got out of town just in time. The Denver area is expected to have a snowstorm Sunday morning!

The mountains were to our right most of the way to Santa Fe. Many are still snow-covered. Because Rick has never seen Taos or Santa Fe, we opted for a two-lane road for about half the drive instead of the highway. Some of it was slow-going, especially when the people in front of us were not into passing. At one point we passed this truck. I don't know whether the warning was true or just a way to discourage people from breaking in. (If you can't read it, the printing on the back of the truck says, "Caution, poisonous snakes!"

We decided to drive through Taos instead of stopping as it was very crowded with tourists. The scenery was more important to both of us. The highway followed the Rio Grande River. It flows rapidly at this point and many people were using it for rafting and kayaking. We just looked!

We drove through Georgia O'Keefe country into Santa Fe arriving around 5:00pm. It was a gorgeous evening and the town was filled with tourists strolling the Plaza area, listening to music, and window shopping. After checking into the La Fonda Hotel, we joined the throngs walking through the historic town center.

We had a light Mexican dinner of chicken tortilla soup and chips with salsa and guacamole. I very much enjoyed my margarita!

We came back to the hotel to plan our travels for tomorrow. We're on our way to Flagstaff, AZ by way of the Petrified Forest!

Talk to you manana!